Inside Horween: Ashland Leather’s Fascinating Tour of Chicago’s Iconic Tannery
A rare behind-the-scenes look at Horween’s legendary leather-making process, filmed by Ashland Leather inside the historic Chicago tannery.
If you’ve ever wondered how world-class leather is made, Ashland Leather has just released a rare and detailed tour of Horween Leather Company in Chicago. This video takes you inside the famed tannery, revealing the step-by-step process behind its iconic hides, from raw salted horsehides to the finished Shell Cordovan and Chromexcel leathers used by premium makers worldwide.
Leather enthusiasts were treated to something special recently when Ashland Leather released a full video tour of the famed Horween Leather Company in Chicago. The footage offers an in-depth look at one of the most respected tanneries in the world, walking viewers step-by-step through a process that has been perfected since Horween’s founding in 1905.
Founded by Nick Horween over a century ago, Horween Leather is renowned for producing some of the finest hides in the industry, including its legendary Shell Cordovan and Chromexcel leathers. Its traditional processes - many unchanged for decades - are a benchmark of quality craftsmanship. Ashland Leather, a Chicago-based wallet and leather goods maker, has long been a champion of Horween’s materials, crafting their products exclusively from the tannery’s hides.
The newly released video is more than a casual walkthrough. It’s a deep dive into the craft, starting in the hide house where salted horsehides arrive and continuing through every stage of tanning, dyeing, drying, and finishing. Viewers see how hides are processed via both chrome tanning and the slower, more traditional vegetable tanning method using tree barks. It also details Horween’s unique six-month Shell Cordovan process, revealing how the prized leather is shaved, hand-curried, stained, and glazed to perfection.
Beyond the technical, the video captures the tannery’s character, its century-old machines still in use, its layered smells that shift from floor to floor, and its mix of modern efficiency with heritage methods. Whether it’s the steam-heated hot stuffing drums, the glass glazing jacks, or the meticulous hand inspections, every step reflects a rare dedication to consistency and quality.
For those who appreciate fine leather, this video is a rare opportunity to see the origins of some of the world’s most sought-after hides. It’s also a reminder of why Ashland Leather proudly crafts its wallets from Horween’s materials, both brands share a commitment to traditional craftsmanship that resists shortcuts.
A huge thanks goes to Ashland Leather for filming and sharing this behind-the-scenes look, and to Horween Leather for opening their doors to showcase the artistry that has kept them at the pinnacle of leather production for over a century. Check out the video and also check out Ashland Leather’s amazing wallets.
