An Interview with ToroNegro Leather
From Kyiv to the World: The Story Behind Toronegro Leather.
There's something quietly remarkable about Toronegro Leather. Based in Kyiv, Ukraine, it's a one-man operation run entirely by Eugene Bondarev, a craftsman who has built a dedicated international following by doing one thing and doing it exceptionally well. Every wallet Eugene makes is cut, stitched, and finished entirely by hand, and almost every single one is crafted from Shell Cordovan, one of the rarest and most sought-after leathers in the world. I reached out to Eugene to find out more about the brand, his obsession with Shell Cordovan, and what it means to keep making things by hand when the world around you is anything but steady.
I first discovered Toronegro through Instagram, and what immediately caught my attention was the sheer variety in design and there amazing colors. Scroll through his shop and you’ll find piece after piece of quietly confident craftsmanship, wallets with a level of finish that most brands with full production teams would struggle to match. His Etsy shop, where he has accumulated over 850 five-star reviews across more than 1,900 sales, tells the same story. Customers repeatedly come back, and they bring people with them.
Eugene Bondarev of ToroNergo Leather.
What makes Eugene’s story particularly compelling is the context in which he’s building it. He continues to craft, ship, and run Toronegro from Kyiv, doing so through extraordinary excircumstances that would have led most people to quit entirely. That he hasn’t says something about both the man and his commitment to the craft.
Eugene with his perrrfect assistant Geshtruder Cumberbatch.
Q. For anyone unfamiliar with ToroNegro Leather, tell us a bit about yourself and your shop. How did you first get into leathercraft, and what led you to start selling your work?
A. My name is Eugene. I was born into a family of artists - my mother is a dollmaker. Since childhood, I’ve felt a deep connection to craftsmanship and creating with my hands. Although I spent many years working in a field far removed from art, I always gravitated back to the idea of making something tangible. Natural leather fascinated me. In 2016, with no local workshops available, I taught myself through YouTube, analyzing finished pieces.
My first creation was a simple cardholder. In 2017, I discovered Etsy, where artisans from around the world sold handmade goods. I thought, perhaps one day, someone might appreciate my work too. That same year, I opened my shop, and soon I made my first sale, a charming wallet purchased by a customer from Denmark. That’s where it all began.
Q. The name “Toro Negro” translates to “Black Bull” in Spanish, which is a striking choice for a craftsman based in Kyiv. What’s the story behind the name?
A. When I first began leathercraft, the only leather available to me was vegetable-tanned cowhide. That was my first association with a bull. The second is that I’m a Taurus by zodiac sign. Beyond that, I’ve always admired these beautiful animals, symbolizing strength, reliability, and hard work. However, by that time, there were already many leather brands named with variations of “bull” in English. I wanted something distinct. Since I’ve always loved the melodic sound of Spanish, I chose a Spanish name - that’s how Toro Negro came to be.
“Sometimes I even lose track of time while working. And that’s also one of the reasons why I deliberately choose to make everything entirely by hand.”
Q. Shell Cordovan is at the heart of almost everything you make. For anyone who’s never heard of it before, how would you describe what makes it so different from other leathers?
A. First and foremost, Shell Cordovan stands apart from other leathers due to its structure. Structurally, it’s more akin to a dense, cartilage-like tissue rather than typical leather. This is precisely what makes Shell Cordovan much stronger and more durable than other leathers. Additionally, it has a premium appearance, and products made from Shell Cordovan develop a beautiful, distinct patina over time.
Q. You work specifically with Shell Cordovan from the Italian tannery Rocado. With tanneries like Horween in the US and Shinki in Japan also producing Shell Cordovan, what drew you to Rocado in particular?
A. Initially, when I started working with Shell Cordovan, the only option available in the Ukrainian market was Shell Cordovan from the Rocado tannery. Later, I had the chance to work with Shell Cordovan from Horween and even Japanese producers. However, by that time, I had already built trusting, warm relationships with the Rocado supplier and directly with the tannery’s representatives. So, personal relationships also played a role. That said, Rocado’s Shell Cordovan fully satisfies me. In terms of quality, it does not lose to other producers - in some ways, it even excels.
Stitchless Shell Cordovan Leather Wallet
Q. Looking at your range, there’s a real mix of styles, from clean minimalist wallets to more niche biker wallets with chain rings. That’s quite a broad spectrum. Is there a common thread that runs through all of your designs? Where do you get your inspiration from?
A. Of course, in some models, there may be common design notes. However, this applies not to all pieces. I truly enjoy working in a wide variety of styles. I see new styles as a challenge for myself as a craftsperson. I draw inspiration from the most diverse sources. Since my work has long become part of me, I draw inspiration from completely unexpected aspects.
It can be anything: sometimes designs even come to me in dreams, sometimes I see new design elements in everyday life. I am also inspired by the work of Japanese masters, whom I value very highly. And, of course, I am also greatly inspired when my customer is satisfied with the work I have done.
Q. Everything at ToroNegro is made entirely by hand with no machines involved. At what point in making a wallet do you find the most satisfaction?
A. I probably get a sense of satisfaction at every stage of making a wallet. When I’m cutting the leather, I enjoy selecting pieces that match beautifully and complement each other. During assembly, it’s satisfying to see how well the parts fit together and how clean the edges and details turn out.
That’s one of the unique things about true handcraft - you’re fully involved in every step of the process. It’s very rewarding to watch everything come together and see that it’s turning out just right. Sometimes I even lose track of time while working. And that’s also one of the reasons why I deliberately choose to make everything entirely by hand.
“Even in the darkest times, help can come from places you don’t expect. You just have to believe in the kindness of people’s hearts.”
Q. When someone is shopping for a wallet online, handmade or otherwise, what are the things they should actually be looking at in the product photos to judge quality before they buy?
A. I recommend paying attention to the basic signs of good craftsmanship: neat, even stitching, well-polished edges, and cleanly finished elements of the wallet (such as pockets and properly installed zippers). And of course, the overall quality and appearance of the leather being used. Also, don’t forget to pay attention to customer reviews.
Q. What are the biggest red flags that tell you a wallet, however good it looks in photos, has been made poorly or with cheap materials? What traps can people fall into?
A. If a wallet looks beautiful in photos, it’s important to read the description carefully. If there is no description, or if it doesn’t clearly say what kind of leather the maker used, that can already raise some doubts before buying. In that case, it’s also worth paying close attention to the reviews.
On Etsy, for example, there are now many shops run by large factories that mass-produce wallets. In these cases the price is low, but the product is factory-made and usually of fairly low quality. Unfortunately, inexperienced buyers often focus mainly on the low price. Because of this, it becomes harder for independent craftsmen to promote their work, products that are made with attention to every detail and real care.
These kinds of shops also often copy designs. One of my wallet designs was copied once and is now being sold at a much lower price. But I’m not worried about it, because the quality of their version is noticeably worse.
Long Bifold Wallet crafted from Rocado Shell Cordovan in stunning Marble Rubino.
Q. What’s your personal favourite wallet in your collection, and what makes it stand out for you? Which wallet are you most proud of making?
A. This is one of the most difficult questions for me, because I don’t really have a single answer. For me it works a little differently. At different times, each model I make becomes my favorite. Every time I create something new that I designed myself, that piece becomes my favorite for a while. Then, after some time, I come up with another idea, and the favorite changes. And I actually think that’s a good thing. It keeps me from standing still. There is always some kind of progress, experimentation, and evolution in what I do.
Q. You’ve built a strong international customer base, shipping to the US, Germany, Japan and beyond, all while based in Kyiv. How has running a small craft business from Ukraine been during what has been an extraordinarily difficult few years?
A. Oh, it has been quite an experience. A lot has happened over the last few years. I could talk at length about the difficulty of running a small business in a country whose sovereignty has been under serious threat, and where a war started by another state is taking place. But then this interview would turn into a chronicle of the past four years.
I could talk about the beginning of the war, when I had to leave my home, the places I loved, and my work, and flee from troops that were literally approaching Kyiv within the first week. I had to leave my materials and tools behind and put my shop on pause.
In many ways I became a refugee. Friends who live in the western part of Ukraine took me in and helped me during that time. After a while, when my savings started to run out, I began thinking about trying to return to work. By that time postal services had resumed operating.
And then something truly wonderful happened. People I barely knew from the internet offered to help me. One man, who later became my friend - sold a website he had created and gave me the money so I could buy materials and start working again. One of my customers from Poland, who is now also my friend, began regularly ordering from me simply to support me during that difficult time. And there were many stories like that.
What I want to say is that even in the darkest times, help can come from places you don’t expect. You just have to believe in the kindness of people’s hearts. I am deeply grateful to everyone who helped me, knowingly or unknowingly. I truly value it, and I carry every one of those moments in my heart.
“I probably couldn’t even count how many wallets around the world were literally made while air raid sirens were sounding around me.”
Q. Has the situation in Ukraine changed anything about how you approach your craft, whether that’s your materials, your process, or even just the meaning the work holds for you?
You know, of course some things have changed. The work process itself has evolved. I’ve had to adapt to frequent power outages, especially in winter, when our power substations are often targeted. I set up alternative sources of energy and learned to react quickly to these kinds of problems.
But the most important change for me is the growing love for what I do. There have been very difficult days when hope for better times almost left me. But the thought that a wallet made by my hands can bring joy to someone on the other side of the planet means a lot and keeps me going.
I probably couldn’t even count how many wallets around the world were literally made while air raid sirens were sounding around me. So yes, many things have changed. But the war has also made me stronger. It has taught me to value what I do even more, and to love this world and the people in it even more.
Rocado Shell Cordovan leather bifold wallet: Look at those stunning colors.
Q. Finally, the question we ask everyone: if you had to carry one wallet for the rest of your life that wasn’t your own, which one would it be and why?
If I had to choose a wallet made by another craftsman, I would want it to be the work of someone who is deeply in love with their craft, someone who gives great attention to every detail while making it.
It would probably be something simple but very well made. Most likely I would choose something compact and practical. But the most important thing is that it would be a piece with soul - something into which the maker put a part of themselves while creating it.
Q. Where can people follow your work and find your shop?
A. People can follow my work on Instagram at ToroNegro Leather, where I share my latest pieces and the process behind them.
My wallets are available in my Etsy shop at toronegroleather.etsy.com and also in my personal online store at toronegroleather.com.
I’m always happy to connect with people from around the world who appreciate handmade craftsmanship.
Eugene Bondarev is not a man who makes wallets because it’s convenient. He makes them because he can’t imagine not making them. Taught by nobody, built from scratch through YouTube videos and sheer determination, Toronegro Leather is the product of a person who found his calling and refused to let go of it, even when everything around him was falling apart.
What strikes you most reading back through his answers isn’t the technical knowledge, impressive as that is. It’s the quiet humanity running through all of it. The stranger who sold a website to help him buy materials again. The Polish customer who kept ordering simply to keep him going. The wallets finsihed while sirens sounded overhead. Eugene wears none of this as a badge. He mentions it the way someone might mention the weather. It happened, it shaped him, and he kept going.
That, ultimately, is what you’re holding when you carry a ToroNegro wallet. Not just Shell Cordovan and saddle stitching. A piece of work made with extraordinary care, by someone who has had very good reasons to stop and never did.
I haven’t had the chance to get my hands on one of Eurgene’s amazing wallets yet, but I hope to very soon. To me, a handcrafted wallet isn’t just about the leather, or the design but the story behind each and every piece. It’s an artform and one that Eugene has truly mastered.
If you liked this interview please check out our others including ones from esteemed craftsmen as Dreadnought Leather, Oliver London Co. and Hawbuck.